Iceland
I have always said the best places seep into your DNA and fuel exploration, connection, and creativity. Iceland does all of that. Reykjavik is a fantastic little city, spend time there, but the further you get from the city, the more wild, pristine Iceland comes into focus and takes a hold of you.
KNOW: If you are driving Ring Road, I would recommend a minimum of seven nights and ten is best (or of course longer if you have the luxury of time). If you have five days, that’s actually perfect for Reykjavik plus an overnight excursion, which is still an awesome trip. I am sure winter in Iceland has it’s own magic, there were times even in the Summer that the drive felt dicey and I think I would be scared to do it alone in the winter.
Part of the fun of Iceland is paving your own way and there are many rental vehicle options allowing you to do so. Kuku Campers is a rental company with a sharp sense of humor, solid vehicles and lowbrow, goofy branding that you can’t help but love. I found the sweet spot with a new Subaru Forester rental that did have the option of a cushy bed setup in the back just in case. I liked that it was a sturdy SUV and not a clunky van. Kuku is also great because you can rent “extras” like cooking gear, stove, blankets, chairs, towels, etc etc so you can lighten your travel load. Even if you are not camping, that stuff is often useful to have out in the wild of Iceland. I have been to Iceland multiple times now and have also rented from the more mainstream US car rental agencies, which were also just fine if you don’t need camping gear. They have plenty of 4WD vehicles to equip you for the F Roads if you are venturing into the Highlands. When I was picking up my vehicle from KuKu, they mentioned a few resources that ended up being immensely valuable. This website: tjalda.is is a site to brand into your brain and browser, it includes a map of all of the campsites in Iceland (keep reading even if you are not a camper!). While flying by the seat of my patalones on Ring Road, I realized that these campgrounds also have some of the most authentic (and because it’s Iceland, also chic) cottages, cabins, and hotels. Once you have decided your general route, use this map to find the campsites that are in the areas you would like to stay and then click through to their website to see if they have options of accommodations beyond camping- most do.
The people of Iceland have their own special sauce, they are not warm and they are not smiley, yet they are fiercely kind and helpful. If you are there in the Summer, days are long. Eight days will feel like a month, it’s amazing how much you can pack into a day and you never feel like you are racing sunset to arrive at a place for the night. It does start to mess with your mind so make sure you allow yourself ample sleeping hours and a wind down period in the evening even though it will not feel like it’s time.
I drove Ring Road counter-clockwise, west then north then east. There is no right or wrong way to do it and part fo the fun is leaving areas to discover for the next trip. On the drive, your eyes must stay sharp at all times. Sheep like to stand in the middle of the road and you will patiently come to a stop and wait for them to saunter off. One lane bridges are everywhere on Ring Road, take your time and wait for the oncoming traffic to cross.
No one warned me about Arctic Terns - birds that look similar to gulls and nest on the Icelandic shores all Summer. Always carry a large stick with you when walking along the shores of Iceland because they will swoop and peck or take you out if you are anywhere near a nest.
If you have five nights in Iceland and an adventurous spirit, I would encourage you to dip a toe for a night or two in the Highlands, the rough interior of Iceland. A micro itinerary for that is below along with options for a shorter itinerary in general.
Maybe the most important item of note about Iceland - the chocolate and the candy are to die for. Stock up.
STAY: In the west - Ion Adventure Hotel is 45 minutes from Reykjavik and puts so many outdoor options at your fingertips. I like that it is further west than most within arms reach of Reyk. If you just have time for a night outside of the city, this place is perfect. It’s a small hotel (they are currently making it larger) that is packed with thoughtful design elements. Favorites include the lookout views from the bar, the thermal pool that sits amongst the foundation plinths below the hotel and the incredible hikes directly out the front door.
Hotel Husafell. I got to know the folks who run this hotel and the pride they have for the Husafell region is reason enough to stay here. Make a reservation in advance for their Canyon Baths which can only be accessed through the hotel and are not open to the public - they are a wow. It’s a little journey down into the canyon and the thermal baths are high on my hot baths list. The food at Hotel Husafell is so good, one of the best meals I had in Iceland (also very good wine served at a perfect temperature). The waterfalls in Husafell, Hraunfossar and Barnafoss, just down the road from the hotel are worth seeing - smaller in scale than other Icelandic falls but a vast and interesting formation.
In the North: The cabin or “hut”, at Hlíð, that I found through tjalda.us in the Myvatn area sits on a 300 year old lava field, has a view of the lake, and is magic. Mine was a basic cabin that was clean and well appointed and they have every level of accommodations - camping, hostel, cabins, cottages and luxe cottages. It is well located and a dreamy little spot to disconnect for a couple of days while exploring otherworldly pockets of the north.
In the Northeast: I love this part of Iceland. I also love this next place I stayed. So much so that I included it on The Overnighter (the greatest places to stay for a night or two). Just an hour east of the cabin at Hlíð, and ten minutes off of ring road into the Highlands, sits the weird and wonderful Fjalladyrd at Modrudalur… (also don’t worry your pretty little head about trying to remember or pronounce anything in Iceland). This place. THIS PLACE. It is the highest settled farm in Iceland and a northern point of entry to the Highlands. The farm is lush and the views are vast, the food is hearty, the farm dogs are sweet. The Nordic bunnies will put on a little show for you, and when the sun finally lowers, the baby foxes can be seen playing on the decks. If that does not sell you - their hotel and turf houses are nice and cozy. My guess is that this place goes into hibernation under a blanket of snow and a dark sky from October to May and then blooms at warp speed for the remaining four months. I got the best taste of real Icelandic people during my stay here.
In the South: Oh, Dear Torfhús. Torfhús Retreat is a slow drip and a total splurge. When we first got there I was like um I think this may not be worth it. But as you ease into Torfhús and start to notice every thoughtful, meticulous detail, and get to know the special team that works there, this place becomes undeniably wonderful. Simple luxury. A place to slow down, eat well, let your eyes feast and your body and mind rest.
While in Reykjavik, stay in one of the garden apartments at Guesthouse Galtafell. It is within walking distance to everything but in a more neighborhood spot than most hotels in Reykjavik. I have also stayed at Apotek Hotel multiple times which is more central, and a really beautiful hotel with exceptional staff, love that one too.
DO: One of the best things about Iceland is that you don’t have to be a big hiker or outdoorsy person to enjoy it, you just have to like being in nature and appreciate your surroundings. There’s walks of all levels all over the country. One of my favorite jaunts is in the west, the trailhead is directly behind the Ion Adventure Hotel. It is a four mile loop that takes about two hours, all through the geothermal areas that directly feed the power plant. There is an AllTrails route to make sure you are on the right track, along with trail markers. The best part is a little loop around the geothermal pools that are not on the AllTrails, but do follow the trail markers.
If you are looking for a strenuous hike - also in the west - spend a morning or afternoon hiking Glymur, a grand waterfall, just an hour from Reykjavik. It’s an interesting journey, there’s a cave, a river crossing (with a log to walk across and a wire to hold on to), some real scrambles and amazing vistas. I found this hike to be more challenging than the accounts that I had read but maybe it was because I was fresh from the plane, tired and jetlagged. Here is the alltrails link for the route.
While way up north, visit the geothermal areas in the Myvatn area. Mt. Namafjall, Hverir, Krafla, Viti Crater - these are all of the steamy, bubbling, crater lands, there is a road that runs through all of them, get out and explore at each one. There’s plenty of tourists there but it really does feel like you are on Mars and it’s just so fun. Take your time and enjoy the walks. It’s wild.
The Baths. If you are a real Dipa, and you have been reading these guides, you know that thermal baths are often a priority. Warm baths are life. Iceland has some of the best in the world. There are the large, organized ones, there are the tiny old ones that you feel proud of when you discover them, and everything in between. I mentioned the Canyon Baths above in Husafell that are a reservation-only experience, that was definitely a favorite. Two others that I love, in more organized “Spa” fashion - Vok Baths in the Northeast and Fontana in the South. Both have a series of geothermal baths that sit on the lake, nice large locker rooms, plenty of baths that are different temperatures, sauna and steam room. You can also jump into the freezing lake for a jolt if that’s your thing.
Stuðlagil Canyon in the Northeast was my hands down, not to be missed favorite activity. Important note that all of the directions I read led you to park at the white footbridge and walk the rest. There is now a bridge for cars next to the footbridge and cuts down the walk to the canyon by a mile or two. To get there from Egilsstaðir: drive along the gravel road (Jökuldalsvegur) for about 8 miles, and you will see a sign on the left of a farm called Klaustursel. Follow the path and you will see a parking area with a white foot bridge further up the road along with the NEW bridge for vehicle crossing…keep going… cross and turn right, continue until you see a second parking area (another 1.5 miles), park and follow the footpath to the canyon. The walk there from the closer parking spot is probably a two mile easy walk. This basalt canyon is completely breathtaking. I was huffing and puffing, making my way there, thinking this would potentially be a waste of my time and a tourist trap. It is anything but. 100 times better than it is hyped to be. The most massive, stunning natural wonder that I have ever laid eyes on. You can also climb all around it, up top, down low, everywhere, play around! And here are too many photos of Stuðlagil because this is personally the content I am here for.
Leave yourself a day to explore and hike around the Eastfjords where you will find a slower pace and quieter towns. There’s really nice walks lining the shores, I found a lush, well-marked walking path in Djúpivogur, where you just walk along the water to pick up the footpath marked by wooden posts that go for miles.
For a shorter stay in Iceland where you are not looking to encircle the country on Ring Road, I recommend a jaunt to some great areas in the south of Iceland including a visit to the Highlands. Make sure you have a 4WD vehicle that is approved for the F Roads. Do a night in Flúðir, which is a magical little spot 65 miles from Reykjavik, where I recommend a farm stay, guest house or Torfhús and a bite at Minilike, an Ethiopian Restaurant. Then head to Hrunalaug Hot Springs, tucked away in a mossy valley, a perfectly warm natural pool with a little old wooden turf-roof hut for a changing room if needed. There is a footpath down to the site and something mystical about this spot that feels so out of this world.
After a night spent in Flúðir, wake up early and head towards Landmannalaugar. The base camp for many long hikes in the Highlands, an outdoorsy bohemian paradise, and a good spot to set out on a beautiful day hike. It’s different than the rest of Iceland, the sky feels bigger and the colors bolder. Also while driving to and from, get out of the car and look around as much as you please and if you see an appealing trail as you get close to Landmannalaugar, explore. If you are there for the day only, no need to do the river crossing in your car at the approach to Landmannalaugar (park in the lot just before it). Do be prepared to cross a river at one point or another while in the Highlands. I was petrified the first time I drove through one but after the first you feel more comfortable. There is an information hut once at Landmannalaugar with knowledgable staff if you have questions about hikes. The scene of hippies and hikers down there was a bit much for me, there’s a hot spring that was packed with dirty hikers that were using it to bathe that I steered clear of and in general the camp scene was a little dirty for me. Beautiful place though, worth seeing and it’s the jumping off point for hiking. It’s a whole vibe.
After a day of hiking, I recommend checking into one of the handful of cottages at Afternoon Cottages. Just outside of the Highlands, near the town of Hekla, but still not quite back to civilization and a spot known to get a good view of the Northern lights at the right time of year.
Ok folks, after you have traipsed your way around this fine country, and soaked in all of nature, it is time to high tail it back to the city because everyone deserves a few days of Reykjavik goodness. Reykjavik is so damn chic, has wonderful restaurants, shops, and hotels so just wander through the city and relax. If you have dinner at one place in Reykjavik make it Hosiló - the best restaurant in town that is under the tourist radar and the greatest way to end a trip to Iceland. Make a res, it’s small and very popular with locals. Next door (and upstairs) to Hosiló is Rontgen Bar, awesome spot for a drink. Two equally supreme bakeries to hit - Baka Baka, that also has an all day menu that will keep you coming back at all hours for snacks, and Braud & Co, which also happens to be next door to Reykjavik Yoga and no one ever minded a flaky croissant post practice. The swanky Edition Hotel is always a good spot for cocktails - rooftop or lobby, or even “Tolt” their secret back spot, open on the weekends. Verzlanahöllin is the best second-hand store in Iceland, it’s huge and takes time to look through everything. Húrra is a higher end, streetwear style shop - well made basics to get you feeling like the cool kids of Iceland. Lastly visit Norr11 which is really more of a gallery than store for some inspiration and pair it with a coffee next door at the cafe.
Very last hot tip, promise, for now - if you abandoned the thought of all others back home while traveling well then good on you! BUT duty free at the airport is oh so good and stocks all the chocolate, candy, face and body products that a traveler coming back to reality and remembering their loved ones needs just before stepping on that plane.