Faroe Islands
Do less in the Faroe Islands. The pace in the Faroes is quiet and slow, embrace it and don’t spend your whole trip running around. Given the small population of only 50,000, the level of sophistication and infrastructure is impressive. There is the jaw-dropping, comprehensive undersea tunnel system that connects the islands, Michelin starred restaurants, world class design and easy access to some of the most epic landscapes.
The Faroes are easier to get to than you think. There are plenty of flights from European cities, from the states there is a seasonal flight from Stewart Airport in New York and both Atlantic Airways and IcelandAir fly from Iceland. They are set up well for tourism without being overrun with tourists. I think it’s essential to rent a car upon arrival. I did meet a traveler once who relied solely on busses and ferries and it worked just fine for him - sounds like an added layer of stress that I would avoid if you can. I took the bus back from one of the northern islands once when I peeled off from a tour. The nice, sort of fancy bus arrived right on schedule to the shelter that I was waiting in and dropped me in Torshavn, easy peasy.
STAY: I usually spend most nights staying at Hotel Føroyar. It’s the large hotel on the hill that sits above, and overlooks the capital of Tórshavn. There is a foot path from the hotel to town that takes about 20 minutes to walk down and 35 on the way back up (steep on the way up!) I usually prefer small, quaint hotels while traveling but I find Hotel Føroyar to be a very comfortable haven that I highly recommend. The rooms are cheerful, I have stayed in many different types of rooms, from the smallest in their Annex building to a suite with the best view. All are perfectly good. The breakfast spread is tops, the spa is a treat and reasonably priced and the restaurant and bar have enough that if you want to cozy up for a rainy day in the hotel, you will be content to never step foot outside. I highly recommend the Rasul when visiting the spa which consists of a face and body mud mask and scrub in a steam room. It is a downright delight and a nice little thing to treat yourself to if you don’t want to go for a full treatment. I also love their post-Rasul Relaxion Room with tea and fruit. It all leaves you feeling great especially after a long day of hiking.
There is a good chance you will want a place to stay for a night or two coming from, or going to, the airport. Just up the road from the airport is a set of cute Cottages By The Sea in the town of Sørvágur. This is a great town, one of my favorites. Very small but has all that you need and a good base if you want to spend time exploring the areas around it. There is a grocery store, soccer field and a restaurant or two.
EAT: The restaurants in the Faroes are quite perfect. The atmosphere and quality of most restaurants are unbelievable for a place so small and remote. Almost all that are noteworthy are in Tórshavn. With one exception - Fiskastykkið, which sits along the coast in the town of Sandavágur, between the airport and Tórshavn. They keep daytime hours (11a-6p) and are open Wednesday thru Sunday. There is not a bad bite or sip in the house. Above all though is the fish soup, get this fish soup. I always end up here multiple days per trip and usually sit for a few hours of coffee, bites and soup. It’s gorgeous all around.
ROKS is my go-to for a special dinner out. It’s both fine dining and playful. The smaller tasting menu is plenty. I have been three times, each time the menu is different, there are always one or two knockout courses. Aarstova and Katrina Christiansen have a similar vibe, elegant hearty food, great lamb. Etika (sushi) is a good go-to for lunch or dinner and so is Suppugarðurin for ramen. Panama Cafe is a good stop for coffee and connected to the bookstore. I usually find myself getting take out one night from “Thai Style Takeaway” which is well, exactly as it sounds. For a beer, it’s always Mikkeller. The oldest little house in Tórshavn and classic pub style beer - the place you will probably find yourself over and over for a pint end of day.
Oh also, one other note outside of Tórshavn - if you are staying in Sørvágur, near the airport, where the Cottages mentioned are, there is a solid restaurant called Pollastova. It is a no frills local spot, where I find the food to be solid, simple and fresh, and they are usually open for lunch and dinner.
DO: The “DO” in the Faroes is all pretty walk/hike focused. It’s such a fun place to be outside. All of the following hikes can be tracked on the AllTrails Apps, and most trailheads and paths are very well marked. There is really no better combo than lunch at Fiskastykkið followed by a hike from there up to the cliff where you can see the Witch Finger (or the reverse order is just fine). On a clear day you can see the notable rock formation out in the sea but honestly it really does not matter one way or another as the fun light climb is worth the jaunt either way. All in Sandavágur.
Also just a few miles from there is the Trælanípa Trail, which is probably the most famous view in the Faroe Islands which appears as a lake that sits above the sea from the top. I would say that this hike is worth all the hype and another fun one. This walk is for all levels as there is no steep elevation until the very end near the viewpoints and it’s a choose your own adventure at that point. The path has continuous sweeping views (like most of the Faroes) and it’s just an hour out and an hour back. The last time we did this hike, our timing brought us to the top just as the sun was going down and wow, I hope you do the same.
The drive to Gjógv alone is not to be missed, great small windy roads as you climb your way up. The town itself could not be more charming. The coastal cliff where the boat slip is never ceases to amaze me and and you can take a quick walk out to the edge from there or choose a longer walk way up through the fields and cliffs above. I have done both, satisfying either way!
From the cute town of Saksun, there is a short lagoon hike or a longer hike across the island - either one is a lovely time, which again drives home a notable point about hiking in the Faroes… there are no bad walks! There are so many trail options so just pick one and enjoy.
SHOP: On days that you don’t want to be out in the wild, plenty of shops to provide a fun bop around town. Guðrun & Guðrun, a fashion forward knitwear company, is always my first stop. I think it’s one of the few knitwear brands, honestly in the world, that is taking knitwear seriously as not just a functional warm layer for winter, but a sustainable, stylish way of life - year round. We also happily carry their sweaters in our shop!
After that stop, if you wander the streets around where Guðrun & Guðrun is, there are plenty of other knitwear shops to enjoy as well - knitting is a huge part of Faroese culture. Maria Poulsen is a home store, hardware store, tabletop appliance store, luggage store, and a few other things. I love it there. Lots of good home and gift items as well as the spot if you need to buy an extra suitcase (I always do).
Just on the other side of the Eysturoyartunnilin Tunnel from Tórshavn (the three-branch sub sea tunnel that is seven miles long!) is Navia in the small town of Toftir. While the approach of Guðrun & Guðrun is handmade, fashion knitwear, Navia’s knitwear is for everyone to wear, everyday. All of Navia’s products are machine made, often times on one of their 3D printing machine that you can see, just downstairs from the shop. Their price points are affordable and they also have a huge yarn business where many knitters in the Faroes come to buy yarn and knitting patterns. The thing that I like best from Navia are their blankets. Particularly the ones with the classic herringbone pattern.
If I am being honest, and I am always being honest, it usually takes me two days after arriving in the Faroes to emerge from a “what have I done by coming here” headspace. This often coincides with very thick fog that sits over Hotel Føroyar. Know that some of the heaviest fog in the Faroes sits over the area of the hotel, and often times Tórshavn, so don’t let it get you stuck inside, and down in the dumps for too long. Weather moves quickly in the Faroe Islands and a heavy fog usually clears if you give it a little time. On my last trip, we had bright sun and blue sky for three full days in a row. On every previous trip, I had much more fog and rain but have always seen the sun peek out just when you need it the most. Remember to drive cautiously. With 70,000 sheep roaming the Faroes, they are often sharing those roads with you. There are also plenty of narrow, one lane roads with little pull-off points for passing that you get used to. By the time you are ready to leave the beloved Faroes, I hope the slow Faroese drip has entered your bloodstream, and without really knowing why, you have a longing to revisit again soon.