Taos and Santa Fe, New Mexico
Taos and Santa Fe are only 1.5 hrs apart but completely different and neither should be missed. Even if you only have a few days, do not skip Taos, it’s magical.
DO: Starting with Taos. Do the two hour Enchanted Circle drive that takes you through mountains, valleys, forests, gold rush towns and the vast diversity of the Taos Valley. The drive goes from Taos and includes Angel Fire, Red River and Questa. We stopped for a bite in Red River and enjoyed a quick walk around this little town.
If it is the winter and you are a skier, hit up one of the most challenging mountains in the US in the Taos Ski Valley. Note that the Ski Valley is 30 minutes from the town of Taos. The whole Taos Valley is fun to explore so don’t feel tied to one small radius. The ski scene is relaxed so you can rock up to the parking lot, get dressed quickly and be on the slopes within minutes, easy in and out. While out there, stop for a beer and soft pretzel (with cheese!) on the deck of The Bavarian.
Between Taos and the Ski Valley is the town of Arroyo Seco. This town stole my heart and is not to be missed. Quality over quantity best describes the restaurants, shops and attractions of this gem. More below on Arroyo Seco.
About 45 minutes west of Taos is Ojo Caliente. These hot springs are tucked into desert cliffs and the sprawling mineral pools and spa are not to be missed. The property also includes a restaurant and hotel so you can happily spend a relaxing day or weekend onsite - we spent an afternoon and evening with a few hours at the spa followed by dinner. Ojo Caliente is probably my number one must do in Northern New Mexico, such a special place.
The Santa Fe DO. Of course get lost in all of the little shops, alleys, galleries and restaurants of downtown Santa Fe. But also, a few key musts aside from that. Ten Thousand Waves is ten minutes from downtown Santa Fe and is a Japanese style spa set in a piñon forest, they offer private hot tub suites that you reserve for 90 minutes - sorry yes, another spa situation. Twice now I have had the Kojiro suite, that had a hot tub with jets, a cold plunge, a sauna, shower and sun deck and was outdoors set under the trees. We did also eat at their restaurant Izanami after the spa. A couple of things were great, most were good. The spa is the numero uno reason to go!
There’s also a great trail system all around Ten Thousand Waves so I recommend tacking on a hike before you hit the spa. We did a light hour-long hike (more of a walk) on the Dale Balls Trail. Lovely little loop just down the road from the spa and really made for a dream afternoon of hike —> spa —> dinner. On the same road as Ten Thousand Waves, about twelve windy miles further is Ski Santa Fe. Another great combo is a half day of skiing (they sell half day passes) followed by a soak at Ten Thousand Waves to sooth your bod post ski. Ski Santa Fe is a smaller, lesser known mountain than Taos and I found it to be so fun and have plenty of good snow - it’s a proper mountain.
If you have a day in Santa Fe and the weather is not cooperating (which is honestly rare) there are plenty of indoorsy cultural opportunities to take advantage of. The Georgia O’Keefe museum is right in downtown Santa Fe and a nice glimpse into her life and art. New Mexico was such a big part of O’Keefe’s life and it’s worth an hour spent immersing yourself in her world.
It makes me quite happy to say, that these days, when you ask people what to do when visiting Santa Fe you will get a lot of recommendations for Meow Wolf. Simply said, it’s an immersive and interactive art installation but it is SO. MUCH. MORE. Every room is designed by a different artist, there are layers and layers of discovery, you can spend hours getting pleasantly lost, you can re-explore rooms and realize just how many things you missed, it may just be the most beautiful, clever and fun way to spend time indoors.
EAT: I have eaten at Orlando’s in Taos a few times now and it just does not disappoint. It’s simple, tasty Mexican food, the owners and staff are helpful and pleasant and there’s an awesome vibe inclusive of fire pits and string lights.
Morning coffee in Taos was at World Cup where they are serious about coffee and it’s great for people watching in the early morning hours. All coffee drinks are espresso-based as a heads up if you prefer drip coffee and they are cash only. We had breakfast at Gutiz which is Latin French Fusion. Get the sausage plate, which I believe is off-menu but has it all with andouille, beans, eggs and toast. Manzanita’s Market is THE spot of breakfast and lunch in Taos. Every single thing is fresh and delicious.
The big sister, and same owners, as Manzanita’s Market is the Love Apple. Lots of love put into every inch of this place from the food to the ambiance, wine, and service. Feels very cozy and a place you just want to spend the evening with friends.
My favorite dinner was Aceq in Arroyo Seco. Classy but down to earth vibes and creative, rather healthy food which can be hard to come by in this neck of the woods. It’s somewhat hidden and is a great stop on your way back from skiing if you are staying in Taos. Elijah is the young chef and now owner and I love what he is doing with this place.
If you are looking for a quick, reliable bite or takeout - the Tap Room. Multiple locals recommended this spot to us and it was delicious. They have a deep beer selection as well.
As for the Santa Fe EAT. The best bite in Santa Fe is at the Bread Shop. Yes, a bakery. The owners are fabulous and warm and incredibly talented bakers. All of the bread has a sourdough base and is perfection. There’s sandwiches, pastries, some grocery items, coffee, and of course lots of loaves to choose from. A very good breakfast in town is at Tia Sophia’s. It’s dirty and delicious and loved by all. The Shed is an old standby that does not disappoint and is forever solid. Paloma is the current favorite rolling off many local’s tongues when you ask where to go for dinner. The food is on point and it’s a fun and festive spot. The service is just so so and the staff a little snarky but definitely a memorable meal and worth a res.
SHOP: New Mexico has GREAT shopping. In Taos, start at Overland. They sell plush sheepskins along with clothing for men and women. While their clothing is traditional, it’s a good place to get staple items that are well made and reasonably priced, especially if you live somewhere with a serious winter. There’s also a beautiful sculpture garden and cafe behind Overland that is worth checking out.
Arroyo Seco has its fair share of cute, and well stocked shops. I found a few treasures at the Arroyo Seco Mercantile. Love this shop, went back many times, pleased I did not pass up a copper pot that I was eying, which was worth carrying in my bag for the rest of the trip. They have blankets, textiles, cookwear, souvenirs, old, new, little of this, little of that. But this store does not feel junky or thrown together, they keep it well edited and nicely curated in presentation.
I also enjoyed Logan Wannamaker’s Studio. He makes beautiful pottery that is made for use and you will want it all in your kitchen and home. Lastly, a newcomer to Arroyo Seco is Little Loved Market. A vintage clothing store bursting with soul mostly from the spunk of the store owner and the very well curated selection she offers.
The Santa Fe SHOP…. there are so many great shops in Santa Fe. Seret & Sons takes up an entire block of downtown Santa Fe and is filled with rugs and furniture from Afghanistan, India, Tibet and more. They have been around since the 60s and their collection is incredibly deep. It feels as much museum as store.
My favorite place for treasure hunting in Santa Fe is at Double Take. This place is huge, so much amazing Southwest vintage, jewelry, clothes, collectibles, the upstairs is filled with home stuff, prepare to spend hours. Prices range, but all well valued from the high to low.
There’s a precious little fine jewelry store in town called The Golden Eye which I really enjoyed. Everything is handcrafted in high-karat gold and the women who run this place are sweet. It’s a small business that has been around for over 40 years and one of those that you hope continues on for many more. Before heading to Santa Fe, get in touch with Teo to schedule an appointment at Santa Fe Vintage. It’s 20 minutes outside of the city in a nondescript warehouse with rooms and rooms of classic American vintage. For 30 years, Scott Corey built this collection and grew an immense following. Teo had worked for Scott for about six years and when he passed away she and her husband took it over. It’s fun to have the place to yourself and get lost in all of the treasures. I am not a die-hard American vintage fan but this place is just so fun to experience and worth a visit no matter your style. Chances are, you will walk away with something. It’s also in the same direction as Meow Wolf so you can hit both in the same trip.
The Raven Consignment is another favorite of mine. It’s one of the best upscale furniture consignment stores that I have been to. Owner Kateryna VanHeisch has an incredible eye and every piece in this 11,000 sq ft space - whether furniture, lighting, garden, accessories or other - feels special.
STAY: The grounds of El Monte Sagrado in Taos were beautiful. Sadly the pool was undergoing renovation and a number of the other facilities were closed. We also had a room that while there were features that we loved - a huge Jacuzzi tub, an outdoor patio, and a fireplace - the room was tired and a little dirty. We may have just been dealt a sub-par room and like I said, there was a ton of jaw-dropping beauty on the physical property of the hotel.
We then stayed at the Hotel St. Francis in Santa Fe. This hotel is simple and elegant and I highly recommend. It’s very well located, well designed and decorated and has good food and drink options.
My favorite hotel is El Rey Court in Santa Fe. A transformed Motor Court from the 1930s that has been completely refreshed and is a total charmer. It’s simple and no-frills and has everything a Dipa is looking for in a hotel. It’s not right in the center of town, it’s just a mile or two out and the grounds are such that you may want to spend most of your time right onsite at El Rey. Lucky for you, more details are on the Overnighter so dig in.
KNOW: In Taos and Santa Fe, we found our favorite places when we got out of the center of town. Have one destination or stake in the ground for something you want to see on the outskirts and then explore areas around it. The Taos Valley is a total wonder, let yourself get lost on those roads. The smell of piñon wafts through all of Northern New Mexico. The area is covered in piñon pines and it is my absolute favorite smell on the planet. A few years ago I discovered the piñon incense of Incienso de Santa Fe and burn it at home through their mini adobe incense holders (it’s also available on Amazon too). The real live version is one hundred times better but if you close your eyes and burn your piñon incense, you may just be transported to the Land of Enchantment.