Paris, France
I hesitate to give a list that people will stick to because the places we love in Paris are so tied to memories and specific days. I usually end up writing back to people with "Just walk around! and here are a few spots to mark on your map to hopefully stop at along the way." Which is really what you do in Paris if you are doing it right- wander the city, stop and eat, stop and shop, wander some more, see some art, wander some more, coffee or drinks every few hours and you have figured out Paris. Still, after having some fully endorsed recommendations, you really can't go wrong by just ducking into most simple, sweet Paris cafes or bistros and enjoying the view.
STAY: I typically stay close to Republique or somewhere between the 2nd and 9th Arr. Decided to mix it up on my most recent trip and stayed in the 6th on the Left Bank at Relais Christine. What a beautiful, classic French hotel tucked away yet right in the middle. It is a splurge for sure but worth it. More details on the lovely Christine are on the Overnighter.
I also recently stayed at Hotel Panache. After having to change rooms more than once, the helpful staff got us a room that we ended up liking very much. Panache is small and quirky but has everything you need. In renovating the hotel, they kept the old charm while sprucing it up well. I wouldn't say it felt luxurious but it was chic and well located. My favorite Paris hotel is Hotel Providence. Also a boutique hotel with an incredible eye to detail. The rooms are beautiful, the amenities top notch (best in-room bar, great products) and I dream of the breakfast at the hotel restaurant. Providence books up quickly so it’s hard to snag a room on last minute trips. It also happens to sit in my favorite location in Paris.
Paris has some of the best Airbnbs in the world. I've stayed in three or four different ones and have never been disappointed, highly recommend.
EAT (and drink): Chez Georges is everything you want in a classic French bistro. The brass, the low ambient lighting that warms the room, banquette seating lining the walls and all of the classic dishes served by uniformed servers. So few places exist like this anymore, it feels like a throwback but not dated. The staff is surprisingly friendly and got us champagne and radishes to nibble on while we waited for a table. I love snails and they have some of the best.
GrandCoeur has both delicious food and the nicest atmosphere. If it’s nice out, sit in the courtyard, great spot. Both the staff and the crowd are very polished and it feels special. Semilla is thoughtful, modern French food in the 6th Arr. Multiple people that I trust raved about Semilla to me. It is very good and worth going, though I felt less inspired there than some of the others in this guide. Next door to Semilla is Freddy’s, oh I love Freddy’s! Stone walls, shoebox sized, bar stools all around the place so keep your party size to 2, the front doors open wide when it’s nice out. Top notch wine paired with killer small bites and tunes. In the words of Freddy’s - “no bookings, only love” so you may have a little wait but worth it. I have heard about Frenchie for so many years. It's small and hard to get a reservation so I usually miss it and say I’ll go next time, it was finally THE time. Frenchie has both a Michelin star and an unpretentious warmth. I would put the meal in my all time top 5 and I highly recommend you get yourself a reservation. Every bite of the tasting menu is interesting and delish. The service and ambiance are also perfect.
For those that can’t get that Frenchie res or want a lighter bite, I also do love Frenchie wine bar, which is just across the street. They do not take reservations, making it the ticket for non-planners. They serve fresh, small bites paired with good wine in a cool, relaxed vibe. Our server at Frenchie recommended Terra for dinner. You can't really see it from the street, it has a sexy, modern feel with beautiful, thoughtful food and the dining room sits under a gorgeous glass (greenhouse like) high ceiling. The vibe is a little serious for my liking but the food is excellent. Most dishes are meant to be shared, there's a meat focus though we actually got this noodle casserole that was comforting and delish. There's an open kitchen with the usual perfect French cookware and it's fun to watch. La Bourse et La Vie is a very small restaurant (about 10 tables) with solid, fresh modern dishes that also feel traditional and intentional. Little bit formal, little bit cozy, elegant, refined, that is La Bourse et La Vie.
Babalou is a no frills Italian restaurant that I go to every time I am in Paris. It sits on a residential street just behind the Sacre Couer and one of my favorite Paris rituals is to sit on the steps of the Sacre Coeur at sunset followed by pizza at Babalou. I usually save it for a later part of the trip when I need a break from French food. The pizza is some of my favorite in the world. When the weather is nice in Paris, there's nothing better than a long lunch outside. Le Bébé feels local yet festive and cool, a downtown NY kinda cool with French food. A typical French menu, we got salads with fried chicken, fries and spritzes. The food combined with a beautiful day, great patio seat and a buzzy little Paris Saturday makes this one of my favorite daytime spots...could have stayed all day.
Some days I love grabbing a croissant and a cappuccino on the go for breakfast. Some days, I want some real coffee and a healthy, proper meal for breakfast. Enter Matamata Coffee. Paris is slowly getting onboard with good coffee but it's still hard to find non-espresso coffee in the morning. If you're a coffee person you understand the relief of finding a place that can make you a pour over just as you like it. Both the coffee and food are so fresh and I promise this will become a go-to. This neighborhood spot is small and well designed and has everything you want to eat and drink in the morning. Another great coffee shop is Ob La Di, always stop there for bold, smooth coffee and a good vibe.
Ok let's talk cafes. Here's a few that you can pair with some of the "must do" Paris activities. The Picasso Museum is a must. Post Picasso, there's a little Marais corner spot nearby called La Petit Place. Coffee, wine, small bites, beautiful little nook of Paris.
Le Nemours sits in the arcades of the Palais Royal, across from the Louvre in the 1st Arr. While it's a heavy tourist area, it's such a fun spot to drop into after a long day to watch the beautiful hustle around you. Le Nemours is a must for cocktails and a pre-dinner snack.
For cocktail bars, a few that will have you raving are Little Red Door and Candelaria and Le Comptoir General. Little Red Door has some of the best bartenders in the world, it's seated only so you'll often find a line outside but it's simply because they want everyone to settle in and be comfortable. Candelaria is a little more down and dirty, Brooklyn vibes, tequila focused, hidden door, you know the type. Le Comptoir General is a hidden, huge backyard courtyard that feels like a treehouse labyrinth and is in fact a tiki bar. None of which makes sense until you see it.
It's fun to hit one of the formal, old school, Paris hotels for cocktails. We had a blast in the lounge at George V, serious cocktails, three piece band playing the classics and some of the best people watching in Paris. The floral and decor are also top notch.
SHOP: I live for Thanx God I'm a VIP. It's one of my favorite stores in the world- designer vintage, my version of an art gallery, the whole store is organized by color and tightly curated. They open at 2pm daily and are closed in Sundays...oh to be French.
Although Sézane has now opened a store in New York, it doesn't (in my opinion) compare to the Paris Sézane Apartment experience. love it in there, beautiful store and all the right French basics. For some small pick ups, stop at Les Saintes Cheries, cute shop with cute things in a little strip of quaint boutiques including the florist next door. Also stop into Delfonics in the Louvre for good gifts to bring home. I always stock up on their pouches and notebooks for myself and others. Sophie of Sous Les Pavés has a little design studio and showroom within a courtyard in the Latin Quarter. Her handbags are fun and cool just like her and are a treat to leave Paris with. Message her on Instagram and chances are she will let you come over and shop what she has on hand.
The E. Dehillerin kitchen store has been around since the 1800s. It's bare bones and where the chefs shop. I finally bought a pan while there and intend to do so on every trip to Paris moving forward until my collection is complete. If you ever see a lady leaving Paris with a gorgeous albeit heavy pan peeking out of her carry on - say howdy!
There’s plenty to be said about the Paris Flea Markets in Saint-Ouen, the oldest markets in the world. It’s a great Sunday morning activity (open on Saturday too but since so many things in Paris are closed Sunday mornings, I would slot this on a Sunday). I know that plenty of the markets in Saint-Ouen sell smaller tabletop, textiles, and vintage clothing that many have raved about. I have never had luck in that department. For me, Paul Bert Serpette is tops. It is primarily furniture and that is why you go there. If you are in the market to buy furniture, all of the vendors have shipping partners at the ready who will pop that furniture on the water and send it on over the sea to you back home. If you are not in the market to buy, still go. It is the most inspiring collection of furniture and decorative fixtures that you will ever see and will leave you with a real life Pinterest board of all of the things you need to find when you get back home.
I have a thing with rugs. I collect them. I think every rug I own I bought while traveling. My man Tristan is the Paris Berbère. He sells online, has a well followed Instagram and also has this cool storage warehouse in the burbs right outside of Paris if you happen to be in town and want to see them in person. I'm a hunter when it comes to rugs and like to browse through in person. Tristan is a shipping whiz and my massive heavy rug arrived to my home five days post purchase for very few Euros. Drop Tristan an email to get in touch.
DO: I've never been disappointed by Paris clichés. Do the touristy things. A highlight of my recent trip was the LV Foundation. It was my first time to this museum and cultural center designed by Frank Gehry. The building alone will blow your mind, it's spectacular.
Another newer museum that I have been digging for both the architecture and the art it houses is Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection. It’s in the center of the city so very easy to pop in while wandering.
As I mentioned above, go to the Sacre Coeur end of day, sit on the steps, buy some single Heinekens from the dudes walking around selling them, sing along to a guitarist playing la bamba and watch the sun set on the city. Never disappoints.
Hit whatever museums you can throughout the city- Pompidou for modern art, D'Orsay for the classics, Picasso. If you have an extra day go to Versailles - maxed out decadence, unreal gardens, stunning. It's crowded, go on an off day if possible. I also like the little town when you get off the train for Versailles.
For some sweat, go to Yoga Bikram Yoga or my favorite, that has finally made it’s way to Paris, making it more and more appealing to take up residency - Modo. The combination of long days of walking and travel always has me on a hunt for a good yoga class. There is a daily Bikram class taught in English and the Modo class, though in French, is still easy to follow. I also love running along the river, there's a path for runners and I like going down one side and back on the other with a couple crossings of the Seine bookending the run.
Go to the Trocadero at night to see the Eiffel Tower. It lights up on the hour every hour. You're welcome.