Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts
Each year that I travel back to the Vineyard, I am in awe of every new pocket of discovery. Even locals say that years later they are still discovering new trails, ponds, farms and food. What will always remain, year after year: the sunsets will be fire, the fish will be fresh and those wicked New England accents will be hitting.
EAT: If you are like me, and wake up looking for coffee and a croissant, then you best rise early and get to the Grey Barn when they open at 8am. Their croissants are usually wiped out within the hour and yes, they are THAT good. Their Kouign Amann, which is basically a next-level croissant, is holding strong in my top 5 for breakfast pastries. Grey Barn is a robust working farm that is family-owned and community-centric. You just feel good being on their property. Their bakery schedule is here, you’ll want to check that, committing it to memory is then up to you.
So much fish and shellfish to be had on the Vineyard. John’s Fish Market is filled with locals, reasonably priced and very fresh. We always pick up from there to cook our own fish at home, order prepared meals to go and even eat there at the picnic tables in the parking lot. Everything tastes delicious just be prepared to wait a long time, even if you order ahead.
Lobster rolls and oysters in Chilmark is a Summer tradition. Larsen’s amongst a few other fish shacks are heavily trafficked for a pickup paired with a sunset picnic. It’s a good family activity and actually the lobster rolls are really tasty. Beware that it’s another long wait and the lobster rolls are small and leave you feeling hungry - as long as you don’t rely on the Larsen’s rolls as dinner you will be happy you ordered them. Also the oysters were great, get those.
One of the best things you will eat on Martha’s Vineyard is a sandwich from 7a. They are famous for the Liz Lemon with hot pastrami, turkey, swiss, slaw, Russian dressing and I think there are chips on there too, a good sandwich for sure. My personal favorite is their tuna melt, highly recommend. Dreaming of it.
A newcomer that is more under the radar, and born out of the pandemic is Mo’s Lunch at the PA Club. Started by a couple of Vineyard veteran restauranteurs, their sandwiches and salads are so fresh and truly delish, go there! support them! It’s a special no-frills-just-good-food kind of place.
When you want to go out for a civilized dinner, a night on the town if you will, Red Cat in Oak Bluffs. It has a funky vibe, a warm local feel and somehow remains elegant too. Their Brussels sprouts and fried oysters were amongst my favorites.
One last thing on the EAT front, at Waterside Market in Vineyard Haven they have handcut fries that will knock your socks off. I’m not even sure of anything else that they serve there or if it’s good. But these fries, these fries are good. So go get those and a bottle of wine and live it up at one of their tables in the garden.
DO: Go to the beach at Great Rock Bight Preserve in Chilmark. I wish all public beaches were like this. Once you turn off N Road, you drive about a half mile down a dirt road to the small parking lot. From there the beach is about a 15 minute walk on a trail through the woods until you reach the bluff with wooden steps down to the beach, which is quiet and fairly empty. The water is nice for swimming and there is a huge rock a little ways out that people like to swim to and jump off.
On Wednesdays and Sundays from 9am till noon is the West Tisbury Farmer’s Market. Lots of great local farms present along with a number of grab and go food and drink vendors.
A spot that was new to me this year was Ice House Pond, a serene adult swim spot with clear, warm water. Driving directions to the parking spot and trailhead are here. It’s about a half mile walk through the woods from the parking spot to the dock. There’s a long dock with a ladder and you can swim across the whole pond and back for exercise or just cool off with a dip. My 7 and 9 year old niece and nephew, who are strong swimmers and well behaved came with us and liked it but it’s not for little kids in general as there’s no beach and it is quiet and peaceful.
There is not a more beautiful space to do yoga than The Yoga Barn. The classes are mostly 90 minute slow flows and if you cannot find your zen with the view of the meadow, horses grazing, through the huge cutout doors in the barn well then….
So many amazing sunset spots on the Vineyard, one that stands out is on East Chop Drive by Crystal Lake, just before the bridge from Oak Bluffs to Vineyard Haven. You can just pull over on the side of the road and have a seat on the rocks.
SHOP: Each town of MV has its own set of little shops and it’s fun to bop around any of them and make an afternoon of it. The two that I like the most are both home stores. In Vineyard Haven The Beach House is a great textile shop. Stacks and stacks of comforters, tablecloths, pillows, scarves, etc that feel equal parts Connecticut Grandmother and “Just back from India”.
My other favorite is SALTE in Edgartown. Usually when I walk into stores like SALTE that are a highly curated mix of home and accessories I am turned off by the level of trying, but SALTE actually has really good stuff that you want to buy.
KNOW: Many of the MV towns are dry - Chilmark, W. Tisbury, Vineyard Haven and Aquinnah. Liquor stores can be found in Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. In the Summer, weekend ferries to and from the island book up months in advance so book early. Lastly, SO many mosquitos and ticks, lather on the bug spray and do daily tick checks.
For me, Martha’s Vineyard is always a good reminder of how lucky we are to have such beauty right here under our noses. Instead of traipsing across the globe and running around to places I’ve “always wanted to see” I find just as much fulfillment and fun in driving to New England, spending long days at the beach, riding bikes and digging into the local chowda.
