Dublin and Glasson, Ireland
When you stumble into a perfect five day trip, you write about it. Dublin paired with the epic retreat of Glasson Lakehouse - 1.5 hours west of Dublin and half way between Dublin and Galway, was IT. If you want to continue on to the west coast and its seaside cliffs, easy enough. From Glasson, I have also swung down to Kilkenny in the southeast, which works for a solid loop, if you have a full week.
The Dublin STAY: Number 31 is low key the best boutique hotel in Dublin… well I can’t be sure but I would bet it is. The property was designed by and lived in by the late, great, mid-century, brutalist architect, Sam Stephenson. I stayed in “Sam’s Room”, and if you are an architecture enthusiast, you should too. I stuck to the mews and its straightforward, relaxed vibe, though there is also the more grand Georgian townhouse with deco design, jewel tones and high ceilings. The mews are out of sight from any street and an oasis within the city. Delia’s breakfast, served daily, is legit - highly recommend. Number 31 is an adults only hotel, which I can understand given its size and quiet nature.
Traveling with kids? I would recommend the Intercontinental in Ballsbridge. While it’s not the coolest or the most central, the hotel has huge suites (was shocked at the size, perfect for families), the neighborhood of Ballsbridge is wildly charming, and the hotel is right on both the Double Decker bus line (show me a kid that doesn’t like a double-decker) and the subway line. Takes 10 minutes to get city-center. They have a spa/gym/pool that I enjoyed and used the sauna and steam room in there regularly. We really fell in love the neighborhood. The Avoca food market became our morning walk for coffee and breakfast. A reminder that the Suite is what makes this hotel noteworthy (look and feel are giving large, global luxury hotel, lil dated, good service) and you will probably not be happy with one of the smaller rooms if traveling as a family - but the suite is huge and worth it!
EAT: Duck into one of four Bunsen location in Dublin for a damn good burger. This is not a smash burger, it’s a hearty, juicy burger. Loose Canon is smack dab in the middle of central Dublin. Natural wines and toasties are the deal here. Ask the lovely humans who work there for a wine recommendation, they will steer you right. I cannot eat a grilled cheese without scallions anymore - they have ruined anything but, for me. This is also just a great star to have on the map for a day of shopping, as you are bound to wind up somewhere around there, and need a rest - with good wine. Reyna is another good lunch option. It’s Turkish street food in a jam packed long, narrow space. Large portions, good, quick. Best of luck getting a seat at the Fish Shop, but definitely figure out a way to make that happen - such a good meal. Top tier fish and chips and plenty of other fresh fish options. It’s a small bar and a couple of other seats. There is usually a full list of resies but book ahead or pop in at an off time, or rock up as a party of 1 (as I did) and maybe you will be lucky enough to grab a seat. Those that work behind the bar are pros and this place deserves all the fanfare it gets. Terra Madre is this little basement Italian restaurant on the river. All of six little tables, the room is dark and eclectic and honestly a little dingy. While the ambiance could use a little sprucing, the pasta is shockingly good. I was ready to put it in the “ not for me” category until I got my food, which I have thought about many times since. FRESH. Now onto my favorite place for dinner in Dublin - The Old Spot. Oh how I Iove The Old Spot. We went two nights in a row. It’s the coziest restaurant. Rather large in size, multiple rooms, perfect bar room, everything you want from an Irish restaurant. Great roasted chicken, meat options, the best mussels I have ever tried, just a delicious roster of the greatest hits, cooked to perfection. The two women who greet you and run the restaurant are the best and I am currently at home cooking from their cookbook, trying to recreate it all. Lastly, Avoca, mentioned above, in Ballsbridge is a really great market for prepared foods. They also have a coffee and pastry stand, a full service restaurant, a great rotisserie chicken stand with fresh sandwiches for lunch, and a fun gift shop. Multiple locations around Ireland.
DO: The beauty of Dublin is how compact it is. You really can walk the whole city easily and discover so much in the process. The buzzy streets are lively and fun and on a nice day, most people are outside - join them! For a comical and entertaining history lesson, make your first stop The Little Museum. A 30 minute run down of the history of Ireland, performed in a small room, walls covered in historic memorabilia that helps the fab actor tell the story. Loved this, don’t skip it. As one of the oldest Universities in the world, the Trinity Campus is a treat to explore. The historic library is a marvel, and whether the shelves are full of books or not, buy a ticket to the Long Room. On a warm day, nothing better than finding a bench in St. Stephen’s Green. When you need a break from people watching, take a stroll to see some of the legendary statues around the park and there’s also a good playground for kids in the park.
SHOP: Three that I love - Siopaella is a great second-hand, designer shop - two storefronts side by side. Design Lane and Scout are basically across the street from each other so easy to hit them both. I liked the simple, beautiful knitwear at Design Lane. Scout is probably the best boutique in Dublin - both the store design and everything within, A+.
Roadtrip to GLASSON: We rented a car and drove the hour and a half to Glasson from Dublin. I think you can take a train too, it does take quite a bit longer, but so what. The larger town nearby is Athlone where you can find the necessities and a castle - welcome to the heartland of Ireland. Glasson Lakehouse was built upon a simple lakeside estate and today is significantly more sprawling than the original structure. Yes, it has those historic roots but now has all of the modern comforts that you could want. Rooms, amenities, and dining options to suit all types of travelers. Varying bedroom types - for families, pets, couples. Spa, golf, hot tubs, and gym for adults. Boating, swimming, and bike riding for all. Playground, fairy tale trail, playroom for kids. Food in the restaurant and pub are excellent. I love that they keep the outdoor pool open and warm even in chillier months. Never ending eye candy in this beautiful space with texture, color, patterns, with comfortable, classic interiors. Important note, the Lakehouse does not feel like a resort, that’s the best part of it. It feels like a cool, funky lodge that is both a haven for relaxation and has a hum of fun too. When you do decide you need to leave the grounds, take a bike ride to Wineport Lodge, on the other side of the lake, where you can stop for lunch or a cocktail, with a view. It’s a decent ride and a fun half-day adventure. The castle in Athlone is worth visiting too, does not take long, a nice piece of history.
I like that the Lakehouse is close enough to Dublin that you do not have to trek back to the city the night before a flight, as long as you aren’t scheduled early am. The thing I love most about Ireland is that it’s all easy. It’s not a place where you have to put all of the pieces together ahead of time. Things are close, the sites to see are simple and straightforward and you actually have the time and space to relax and enjoy. Five days in Ireland feels like a true holiday, enough to come home completely refreshed.